Bottega Veneta Has a New Designer


After the shock announcement final week that the Bottega Veneta artistic director Daniel Lee was leaving the Italian luxurious home, a successor has been named: Matthieu Blazy, who is probably not extensively identified outdoors of vogue (very similar to Mr. Lee when he took on the job in 2018) however is properly regarded inside the trade.

Mr. Blazy, whose résumé suggests a cool, craftsmanship-oriented aesthetic, has labored with Mr. Lee because the design director for ready-to-wear collections at Bottega Veneta since 2020. His promotion is efficient instantly, and his first assortment might be introduced in February.

Before he arrived at Bottega, Mr. Blazy, 37, spent three years at Calvin Klein designing males’s and ladies’s collections below Raf Simons, then its chief artistic officer, who referred to as Mr. Blazy a “genius with people” and “ready to lead.”

“He’s a great creative spirit,” Mr. Simons mentioned. “He comes with lots of ideas and willingness to experiment, and that is a source of great motivation for his team.”

Mr. Blazy’s first job in vogue, years earlier than he was at Calvin Klein, was additionally with Mr. Simons, as a designer for Mr. Simons’s namesake label. When Mr. Blazy left for Maison Martin Margiela, it was to broaden his expertise past males’s put on, Mr. Simons mentioned.

It was throughout his time at Margiela that Mr. Blazy first captured the eye of vogue media. In 2014, he was revealed because the designer of its Artisanal high fashion line — the identities of those designers had been usually saved secret — and referred to as, by The Cut, “the most famous designer you’ve never heard of.” (Indeed, nearly no interviews with Mr. Blazy exist on-line even right now.)

The following 12 months, The New York Times named him a contender for one of many subsequent massive jobs in vogue. At the time, he was a senior designer at Celine, the place Mr. Lee additionally labored, and the place Mr. Blazy had gone to be taught extra in regards to the industrial facet of the enterprise, in keeping with Mr. Simons.

In a assertion saying the Bottega Veneta appointment on Monday, François-Henri Pinault, the chairman and chief government of Bottega’s mother or father firm, Kering, mentioned that Mr. Blazy’s “wealth of experience and broad cultural background will allow him to bring his creative impetus to the task of carrying on the legacy of Bottega Veneta.” Mr. Blazy is a French and Belgian nationwide who splits time between Antwerp and Milan.

Leo Rongone, the chief government of Bottega, mentioned that “Matthieu’s appointment will further enhance the modern relevance of our brand and accelerate our growth, while preserving the values” core to the model.

That “modern relevance” got here largely due to Mr. Lee, who leaves his stamp on the model with critically and commercially profitable leather-based equipment, together with square-toe sneakers and pouch baggage and new interpretations of the home’s signature “intrecciato” leather-based weave.

Promoting from inside, quite than recruiting a big-name designer from one other big-name model, is a technique that has served Kering properly, notably in 2015, when it stuffed the artistic director position at Gucci with Alessandro Michele, then the pinnacle equipment designer.

Robert Burke, the founding father of a luxurious consultancy agency in New York, referred to as Mr. Blazy’s appointment “well received in the industry” and mentioned he didn’t count on any “slowing down” within the model throughout this era of transition.

“It makes a lot of sense,” Mr. Burke mentioned of Mr. Blazy’s new position. “He clearly has already been immersed within the Bottega brand itself.”

Vanessa Friedman contributed reporting.