The subsequent step is to usher in her home mannequin, permitting Ms. Lhuillier to see how the material strikes. “Then I say, ‘OK, I love this’ or ‘Bring it down,’ or ‘I want a different neckline,’ because fit is everything.”
From there, her patternmaker determines how one can technically construct the gown, which is adopted by a number of fittings along with her group. “It starts with a muslin and then we start integrating the real fabrics.” Some designs will drop alongside the way in which, whereas a number of others could also be mixed right into a singular design.
Once Ms. Lhuillier approves the draped look, the patternmaker takes all that material, marks it and transfers the sample to paper. Some gown patterns, just like the one for “Secret Garden,” a blush, off-the-shoulder, silk organza robe with a textured skirt, can have as much as 75 items.
The paper sample is then taken to the cutters to chop the precise material, earlier than transferring to a bundler who confirms that all the pieces for the corset and the gown is there. The bundler additionally examines the material, “making sure everything is flawless,” based on Ms. Lhuillier.
Then the bundler packages the items, which can embrace all the pieces wanted to make the robe, from materials to boning, and palms off the bundle to the one who will machine sew the gown, known as “the operator.” The clothes are sewn first by machine and later by hand. “Once we have that shape, then we put it on the model again and check the stitching,” Ms. Lhuillier stated.
It then strikes to the hand-finisher who does all the handwork, together with attaching the embroidery, lace, buttons and hooks.